West Cornwall

Often described as the jewel in Cornwall’s crown, St Michael's Mount, with its 14^th century castle perched on a great granite crag, occupies a majestic setting overlooking Mounts Bay. The original 11^th century chapel was set up by the monks of the Benedictine order of Mont St Michel in Normandy. Fortunately, not suffering the same international tourist notoriety as its cousin, it still retains its own serene charm. We were able to wander around in the quiet of the evening and early morning, when the low tide allowed us easy access.

Finding ourselves close by the mythical setting of Faulty Towers, Glenleigh House B&B in Marazion seemed to be the most likely to fulfill the entire cliché, right down to the “don’t mention the war ...” guests in the breakfast room. Fortunately, the manager was both congenial and efficient. As well as the classic view from our window shown below, it also featured a charmingly furnished lounge where Dad could read his paper in peace and I could watch Formula 1 on the somewhat incongruous mega-screen TV.

The Minack Theatre is perched spectacularly and precariously on the granite rocks overlooking the crashing waves on the south coast at Porthcurno. It remains as a functioning memorial to the indomitable Rowena Cade, who from 1931 to 1983 almost singlehandedly built the entire complex. Unfortunately, as with many places, it has become extremely commercialised since the last time Dad visited. He was charged for the pleasure of waiting whilst Ingrid and I clambered down to inspect the amphitheatre. We made a point of not buying anything in the café or tacky gift shop.

Dylan Thomas described Mousehole as “the loveliest village in England”. It remains an idyllic, tiny fishing port  built of local, fine grained Lamorna granite, sitting on Mounts Bay a couple of miles out of Penzance. I’m not sure if Spanish tourists are yet welcome, as in 1595 a group of them led by one Carlos de Amesquita apparently razed the entire settlement, except the local pub, which still stands. With its sonorous seagulls, tangy salt air and kids playing cricket on the port beach, the whole place almost risked appearing corny. We were treated to an excellent lunch at "2 Fore Street" which featured a Provencal menu, delightful service, a decent Sauvignon Blanc and mandatory view over the harbour. Fortunately, what was not offered was the local delicacy, Stargazy Pie – a recipe of eggs, potatoes and pilchards, but essentially, with the fish heads poking out through the pastry.

  

Until a proper survey was carried out 200 years ago, Cape Cornwall was thought to be the westernmost point in Cornwall. It has thus been saved the ignominy of a tacky theme park, as has befallen Land's End. It is the point at which the Atlantic currents split and is hence a true cape. It features a golf course whose fairways cascade down the hillside into the Atlantic Ocean. Its exposure to the prevailing westerlies would suggest that, to be fair, par for each hole should vary according to the relative wind strength.

Just offshore are the Brisons, an impressive rocky outcrop from where an annual swimming race back into Priests Cove is held. Even in the day's benign conditions, you could see that they would have to pick their weather window wisely.

We travelled along the north coast from Zennor down to St Just which is the true tin mining area of Ross Poldark’s Cornwall. The famous Botallack and Levant mines with their labyrinth of tunnels up to a mile out under the Atlantic Ocean led to some very rich investors and early deaths for the miners. The ruins of engine houses and chimney stacks remain as memorials to the incredibly hard lives led by the workers and their families. Many of them eventually reached Australia, including our great grandparents on Mum's side of the family who emigrated from Pendeen.

  

In our travels so far, due to Ingrid’s diligent research, we have had many excellent meals. This continued at the Mount Haven Hotel back in Marazion that evening. Although it was a little too brisk to dine on the terrace, we still enjoyed panoramic sunset views over Mounts Bay and St Michael’s Mount.

For more photos, click here: