We were
invited with a group of friends to a Roman dinner in famously ex-Roman Trier.
It started out at the Luxembourg railway station, whose main hall features this
striking stained glass window depicting the old part of the city and also a
fancifully painted vaulted ceiling.
Our trip to Trier involved a rollicking ride through
the green and blossoming countryside of southern Luxembourg before continuing
across the border and through the vineyards flanking the German side of the
Mosel River.
At the Trier station, although only looking for a
map, the staff at the tourist information kiosk suggested, nay, mandated a
prescribed itinerary through the city. Feeling particularly anarchic, we headed
off on our own way, taking in firstly the Basilica. This was built on the
orders of Emperor Constantine at the beginning of the 4th century.
Through various incarnations, it is now used by the Evangelical Church of the
Rhineland. After being heavily damaged by fire following allied bombing in
1944, the interior decoration was not reinstated, leaving exposed brick walls
affording a wonderfully austere ambience which I found appealing - definitely
not Assam brothers rococo.
Although not authentic, the rather splendid ceiling
is said to resemble the original. So here is the mandatory ceiling photo.
We continued through the palace gardens which were
populated by ducklings and locals doing what they do when the sun comes out –
taking their clothes off. We passed the Imperial Baths, said to have been the
grandest and most impressive Roman baths in the world, on our way to the
amphitheatre. This was built in 200 AD for the usual gory entertainment
involving gladiators and animals. We were able to access the cellar complex
underneath the arena which apparently housed condemned prisoners and exotic
animals. Of interest were the vomitoria, a colourful figurative description of
how the crowd of 20,000 was afforded a quick exit from the arena.
So finally, we joined the others who had followed
the shopping itinerary, for a refreshing white burgundy sitting outside the
Weinstube Kesselstatt overlooking the glorious Cathedral of St Peter and the
Church of Our Lady. The evening’s Roman dinner featured good company and, uh,
interesting food.
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