Had problems with the first Paris entry so have tried again. Malcolm's turn to write something on our blog....
A romantic weekend in the city of light - what better way to celebrate Ingrid's birthday? Cheap off-season flights and hotels and lack of crowds were a bonus.
Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 1 was not. We went around in circles for quite some time before finding our pre-arranged rendez-vous point. It subsequenly didn't help that the "Yellow Bus Shuttle" was, in fact, grey. We then discovered the wonders of the Paris "circulation" (french for traffic). This at least gave us a "Paris by Night" tour across town to the delightful little Aviatic Hotel near the Luxembourg Gardens.
Ingrid's birthday was celebrated with a dinner in an over-the-top beaux arts decorated restaurant on the Boulevard Montparnasse - a delicious duck dish followed by a plate full of crepes washed down with an Alsation Pinot Gris.
Next morning, after a not-too-early breakfast of coffee and buttery croissants in a local brasserie, we wandered past Les Invalides, through the gardens of the Champs de Mars to the Eiffel Tower. Here we were proffered our first "Is this your gold ring that I just found?" scam. In pretty blustery conditions, I climbed the stairs to the second level (unfortunately, the top level was closed). As magnificent as the views were, they were overshadowed by the extraordinary engineering of this "temporary" structure. It was originally referred to by its many opponents as the "metal asparagus" and only just avoided being torn down in 1910 before it was found to be useful for antennas for the then new fangled radio transmission. Seven million visitors each year are now probably quite glad.
As well as the rain, we were also soaking up the atmosphere. Paris seems so, er ... Parisian.
We climbed the 284 steps up the narrow spiral staircase inside the Arc de Triomphe to see the magnificent 360 degree views. Although it was originally Napoleon's way of glorifying his war victories, this imposing monument is now seen more fittingly as a symbol of the lives lost in France's many wars. The memorial flame over the grave of the Unknown Soldier is suitably sobering.
We had lunch at Chatelet overlooking the Seine. Ingrid discovered "croque monsieur" - a fancy name for extremely tasty cheese on toast.
The weather dictated that we switch our itinerary indoors. Ingrid was pleasantly surprised at my non-reluctance to visit two of the largest up-market department stores in Paris, the Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps. She realised why when she saw the breathtaking interiors and the exquisite stained glass cupolas.
We tried dodging the rain in shop doorways (haute couture and haute prices) and wine bars (much better alternative), but we finally had to buy an umbrella to replace the one cruelly taken from us on our last day in Chianti. The most sober pattern available had lots of little Eiffel Towers. We were now fully fledged tourists.
Huddling under our new acquisition, we performed a three-legged race over the Pont Neuf to Notre Dame. We did not go in as there was a service for the victims of the Haiti earthquake underway. We circumnavigated the cathedral looking for the perfect flying buttress photo angle. On Sunday, we visited the interior. Its simple Gothic style is complimented by its marvellous stained glass rose windows. This was accompanied perfectly by a booming, end of mass, organ extravaganza. Oddly, we found ourselves seated next to a gentleman who clearly suffered kyphosis.
More wandering took us through the Latin Quarter, past the Pantheon and the Luxembourg Gardens. Eventually we had a late dinner in a modern wine bar in Montparnasse, an interesting set combination meal with a none-too-shabby Chablis.
The next morning greeted us with blue skies, so on my insistence we went up the much maligned Montparnasse Tower. At the height of 210 m, there were amazing views. Even more amazing was how brave Ingrid has become.
Feeling like hobbits, we navigated the tunnels of the Metro system, emerging at the Tuileries Gardens. Dodging joggers and doggy bits, we wandered through these gardens to the Louvre, marvelling at both its sheer scale and detail. Contrary to popular opinion, we found I M Pei's pyramid provides a nice counterpoint to the surrounding opulence.
The mythical Sainte-Chapelle did not disappoint, with its exquisite Gothic stained glass windows. The effect was magnificent, despite a dull day and some of the windows being under repair.
Perhaps in homage to Mum and Dad's sojourn in Alsace, I had always wanted to see the Place des Vosges. In trying to find our way there we stumbled on the Marais district, an area of cramped streets, crooked houses and a bohemian atmosphere, albeit slightly gentrified. I think I noticed a hint of disdain in the waiter's mien as we ordered the cheapest plate with the cheapest wine and tap water for lunch. It didn't matter as I had the best of company and a view over the slightly imperfect symmetry of the Place des Vosges.
By late afternoon we were on the train returning to our beloved Chales de Gaulle airport. The northern suburbs provided a stark contrast to the Paris we had been marvelling at for the previous two days.
Athough we didn't buy one of the ubiquitous Tshirts, like millions of other visitors, I think we could still say "I heart Paris".
("kyphosis" = symptom of which is a hunchback)
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