Thursday 17 October 2013

Paris Conference


Last weekend I attended the annual IRC Congress in Paris. Despite some misgivings beforehand, I remain the vice-chairman and one of the policy steering troika. On Saturday evening we had an entertaining dinner at the Yacht Club de France, near the Arc de Triomphe and then an amusing bus tour of the Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower et al. Whilst the Saturday meeting took place in the dungeon of the hotel, we had the smaller meeting on Sunday morning on the 7th floor with lovely views out over the Paris skyline.

  
After lunch on Sunday I caught up with Deb at La Defense, the amazing high rise area on the western outskirts of the city, whose development was initiated in the 60’s and still continues. It features some very impressive glass towers. The focus of this area is La Grande Arche which completes the historical axis of Paris beginning with the Louvre, the Tuileries, Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees. Its symmetry is somewhat spoilt by the lift frames and awnings, but they at least afford interesting shapes to photograph.

  
I was quite taken by the funky but elegant simplicity of the EDF building. It was no surprise to subsequently discover that the architect was I M Pei, he of the Louvre steel/glass pyramid and the Bank of China Tower in Hong Kong. It seemed to me a brave decision by the main state owned electricity company to commission such a radical but dogmatic architect. I am glad they did.


Most times I have been in Paris, I have tried to visit the Grande Palais, that magnificent edifice built for the 1900 Universal Exposition. Whilst the stone façade is typical over-the-top Beaux-Arts, it is the iron/steel/glass dome structure that I find fascinating and inspiring. But, as always, I was not able to visit the interior as they were setting up another exhibition.


As consolation, I decided to visit the Orangerie in the Tuileries, forgetting that it housed amongst others, Claude Monet’s “Nympheas” - hence the 150 m long queue outside. I continued walking east along the Seine past the Louvre, to see the Art Nouveau/Deco extravaganza “La Samaritaine” department store, which was of course closed for renovation. My mood was much improved by an excellent, simple lunch at a brasserie on the Rue de Rivoli, with the passing entertainment of rich ladies shopping.


I wandered on past Notre Dame and the Ile Saint-Louis to see the glass houses in the Jardin des Plantes. To continue the steel/glass structure motif, I took in the Gare d’Austerlitz and Gare de Lyon with their wonderful spans. I then strolled along the Canal Saint Martin before Metro-ing to the Gare de l’ Est and catching the 320 kmh TGV back to Luxembourg.




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