We stayed four nights at Chateau Le
Barreau, a chambre d’hotes (fancy French for B&B) on the edge of the
village of Chemilly-sur-Yonne, 12 kms north of Auxerre. We were the only guests
and were very well looked after by Madame Naess and her two boys, Nutella the
chocolate coloured labrador and Velcro the golden retriever.
Each morning we had a sumptuous late breakfast
in the grand dining room looking out over the gardens and vines. This would be
followed by a leisurely departure on some sight seeing quest, inevitably
punctuated by a long lunch.
The Auxerre tourist authority has set up
a comprehensive walking tour of the historic centre of the old town. Named
after Cadet Roussel, a slightly eccentric bailiff of the city in the 1700’s,
about whom a satirical song was composed and later used as a military marching
song. Following the trail of brass triangles set in the pavements, we ticked off
24 of the total 66 points of interest before stopping for lunch at “La
Marmite”. Oddly, we found no Vegemite-like dishes on the menu. After, being
greeted by solid rain, we abandoned our quest.
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